Well known for its geological wonders, the Dorset coast also has some alternative, and surprising, landscapes to wander in. Last week on a grey November morning I set off to explore the fringes of Poole Harbour. Formed at the end of the last Ice Age when several valleys flooded, it’s a unique habitat with a unique history.
My trail started with a slow steady climb from the village up the side of a chalk down, the grey clouds kept descending, rain blowing in the wind. In the view, the gap in hills is dominated by the dramatic castle ruins, once a royal stronghold.
As I descend the east side of the hill, in the distance the water of Poole Harbour reflects in the low light and the valley floor brings a little relief from the blustery wind. I pick up a slow winding lane across the valley, where the autumn colour still lingers.
The habitat is strikingly different, a heathland with gorse, fern, marshy at times and coniferous woods. The managers of this land, Exmoor Ponies and cattle left to roam wild. Curiously, deep beneath me (5000ft) sits an oil field.
The cloud briefly parts to reveal blue sky and a few rays of sunlight, as I say hello to some of the ponies. The wild gives way to grazing land and statuesque oak trees. Raised boardwalks lead through the woods, a young stag alarmed, pauses to watch me as I wander through. The smell of wood smoke drifts on the air as I happen upon an old woodworking barn, a delightful mix of curiosities inside.
Approaching my journey’s end the woodland parts and the dramatic castle ruins are revealed once more. I wander back into the village to find a warming cup of tea and slice of cake.
This trail is part of our Coastal Seascapes of Dorset trail, one that explores the joy of the coast but with a few turns to celebrate the full beauty and wonder of this region.
