Hiking with skylarks on Dorset’s chalk downs

Earlier this week, Emma from the Foot Trails team was out in north Dorset checking part of one of our trails in our Thomas Hardy’s Dorset trip that takes you out to one of the most impressive chalk downs in the county.

View over farmland to a chalk escarpment.

“I arrived early at my startpoint to be greeted by an overcast sky threatening rain. But as is often the case in summer, the dark clouds soon cleared leaving behind a blue sky dotted with white fluffy clouds. 

As I passed through the gate onto the escarpment, the first thing I noticed was the musical trilling of a skylark hovering up high in the sky. The second thing I noticed were the views: stunning panoramas out over the patchwork fields of the Blackmore Vale to the north and the chalk escarpments of the Cronborne Chase stretching off to the east. 

View of the Cranborne Chase hills with a wooden gate in the foreground

This hill dominates the surrounding countryside, forming a wide, green bowl that has captivated walkers since Thomas Hardy’s days. In fact, this is classic Thomas Hardy country. The Victorian novelist set many of his stories in this rural landscape (Tess of the D’Urbevilles, Jude the Obscure and The Woodlanders to name three) and little has changed here since his day.

View of chalk downs with long grass in the foreground

As I hiked along the top of the hill, it was impossible not to lose myself in the view – the fast-moving clouds casting fascinating shadows on the farmland below. Checking my trail notes and occasionally looking at my map, I felt my focus shift to the simple rhythm of walking, the hustle and bustle of everyday life quickly slipping away.

I made sure to take a while and just sit with the view. The breeze carried on it the sounds of birds, bees, cows and sheep as well as the faint sounds of agricultural machinery – the sounds of the countryside going about its business. 

Photo of a footpath waymarker with green countryside stretching out in the background

I continued along the top of the hill staying on the path through the grasslands and wildflowers. Birdsong was everywhere. Alongside the everpresent skylarks, I also spotted a yellowhammer that briefly alighted on a fencepost next to me. Eventually, I came to a waymarker that took me downhill, through some shady woodland and out into fields. As I crossed the fields, I had another view of the impressive chalk downs. This is one of the great joys of walking, you get to experience the landscape from multiple perspectives and angles, truly immersing yourself in the region you’re walking in.

Photo of a five-bar gate surrounded by trees

I continued across the fields until my route took me onto a gravel path towards a nearby village. Soon I was heading uphill again, through a tunnel of cool and shady trees and hedges. Off to my right, I spotted a deer racing off into the countryside, startled by my presence. Soon, I reached the spot where I had originally parked and had to reluctantly tear myself away from this haven and head back into the ‘real’ world. Although this was a relatively short walk (just part of our actual route in this area), I was treated to an array of stunning views with birdsong, livestock and wildlife, and felt as if I’d been out for much longer.

View over a valley of patchwork farm fields nestled between green hills with a wooden gate to the right

If you’d like to explore the timeless landscape of South West England, visit our trip page or send us an email.

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